Normally, I would test out a new pattern with a mockup garment – basically, using cheap fabric to make sure everything lays right. But, I just used the fabric I purchased for the undershirt and basted the piece with loose stitches. Overall, I think I did a good job on the pattern.
I decided to sew the pieces together in a different order than I normally do. Generally, I put the entire bodice together, then sew the sleeves closed. I then finish by sewing the sleeves onto the armholes. However, last time I did that, I had a seriously hard time getting the armholes in the sleeves and on the bodice to match up.
So, this time, I sewed in this order:
- Shoulder seams
- Sides (from the wrist to the bodice hem)
This definitely worked better for me and my armholes.
Fitting the Garment
For those most part, the undershirt fit great! The sides were snug enough to not be baggy, but not so tight they showed off my feminine figure – after all, I’m crossplaying Link, so I don’t want to look too curvy. I did have to leave slits up the sides near the hemline. I planned on this, but the slits did become necessary since the shirt was snug on my hips without them.
The shoulders were the only part that didn’t fit. They were too large, so I cut into the shoulder to adjust. It was an easy fix.
Inside tip: Taking in shoulders will, consequentially, shorten sleeve length. So be aware of that if you ever need to alter a garment. For this project, that was really no problem. The sleeves were cut long so I had plenty of room for trial and error.
Back of the Neck
Initially, I drew the back of the neck on the shirt too straight. It needed to be curvier to accommodate my neck. Without the fix, my neck pulled the shoulder seams back. Once I cut into the neckline a little more, however, the seams laid where they were supposed to.
Things to (Maybe) Fix
The only thing I don’t like about the pattern and subsequent mockup are the armholes. They stand up funny in the back. I wonder if I didn’t make the back piece of the pattern broad enough. I’m debating reworking the back pattern and cutting a new piece. It’s not hard to do, and I have plenty of fabric. I’ll let you know if I kept the current piece or replaced it in the next post.
Overall, the undershirt was fairly simple – it only has four pieces. My next step will be to fix the armholes, and then I can serge all the seams and add decorative elements.